Whitmun (Pentecost Monday)
Pentecost Monday is a holiday in France, but that doesn't stop the Monday market.
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Our destination was the nearby town of St-Florentin. Its church dominates the natural amphitheater into which people have built and lived for at least 2000 years, and one of the 12th-c. towers still exists.
But politics being what they are, the canal wasn't finished until the 19th c., and two years later the railroad rendered it obsolete. The canal spans 252 km (157 miles), has 189 locks, and is now used for pleasure boats.
The Burgundy Canal runs just below the town. Originally designed in the late Middle Ages, it would connect the Rhone and Seine Rivers, thus creating an interior waterway from the Mediterranean to the English Channel.
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The canal at St-Florentin crosses over the Armançon River at the canal-bridge. Just after we arrived two boats were announced (by text message to the lock keeper) so we waited for them.
St-Florentin
Having reached the lower water level, the gates opened and the boats were on their way - to the next lock.
Four families had rented two boats and gone a few miles up the canal and back over the long weekend.
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We started looking at St-Florentin from one of the hills, admiring the tile rooftops and the natural hilly setting, which the Romans had already identified.
Market day started for us at the fountain in the center of town.
From there we fanned out to explore clothing, shoes, lawn mowers, scarves, jewelry, and ... all the food we would need for lunch.
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The basket weaver did especially well this year.
After a morning of heavy shopping, we met up at Prof. Kinder's favorite tea & pastry shop, and then headed to the parish church on the hill.
The parish church of St. Florentin has magnificent 16th-c. colored glass windows.
Beneath the window of St. Martin of Tours, Meg explained the life and miracles of this saint, who is best known for dividing his cloak in two and sharing it with a beggar.
Between each window is a statue of a saint. Aaron stood under the sculpture of St Jacques (James) the Greater, whose pilgrimage to Compostela in Spain in one of the week's themes.
Francis's saint was St. Roch, less well known today, but important in the Middle Ages as a healer (and patron) of plague victims. He is usually shown displaying a plague sore on his leg, and accompanied by a dog who brought him food when he was ill.
Pete's saint was Peter, the first Apostle - the rock on which the Church was established. He is always shown as a white-haired and -bearded man holding a key.
After a short drive we spread out the picnic at an 18th c. mill.
Three roast chickens, 5 local cheeses, radishes, carrots, local tomatoes, 3 boxes of strawberries, rabbit pâté, tapenade (olives crushed into a paste), and various loaves of bread disappeared fast.
Some students were adventuresome and ventured briefly into the icy Armançon River. Others were happy to be spectators, or sun worshippers.
We spent the afternoon in Tonnerre, which is famous for its late 13th-c. hospital, founded by the Countess Marguerite. After her husband, the king's brother, was killed in the Crusades, she returned to her native city and built this impressive hospital for the poor, tending them herself until her death.
This building functioned as a hospital for 350 years. The students learned that there were 20 beds along each side, all facing the chapel at the far end (souls of the sick were treated as well as bodies), and that each bed contained two people.
After recovering, the students walked along the medieval wall and up to St Peter's church for magnificent views of the city.
The French are very proud of their gardens, and every city maintains flower beds.
We met at the Fosse Dionne, a natural spring that was the site of the earliest settlement in Tonnerre. It's full length has never been explored, as the depth, twisting path, and clay walls make it difficult to study.
In the 18th c., the spring was surrounded by a circular roof, fireplace niches were added, and the women came here to do the washing.
After a long, warm day, we drove home through the Chablis vineyards. The grapes are just coming into bud, and hail is forecast for tomorrow - last year it devastated some vineyards, which was a disaster for the region.
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Pray to St. Vincent of Saragossa that it doesn't happen in 2018!
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· Bonjour! I've been leaving comments, but they haven't been showing up. I realized today that maybe i needed to be logged in first, so I'm trying this :) I've been loving the daily updates! It looks so beautiful and so filled with fascinating history. Meghan, I'm sure that Nanny well be very happy to know that there jus a blue haired saint! The performance must have been amazing to be that close with those acoustics. Love you sweetie pie! Katrina
· Emailhegland.sarah@gmail.com
· Messagemeg geschwind. i like that shirt. xoxo-sarah
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o meggy g. i see you following in dave's footsteps. -sarah
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o Ivan and I are very jealous of your experience of this piece in that setting with those performers!
o MessageThank you Professor Kinder for the blog. It is just wonderful and I so appreciate all of the photos and posts- can't believe how much the students (and me) are learning! Please tell Mairin that her mom misses her, but I am so happy that she is able to have this wonderful experience! Au revoir :) Joanne King
o MessageAs beautiful as ever! Et je voudrais un peu de ces beaux saucissons secs!
o MessageA good bread, great adventures with good friends can only equall a once in a life time experience. Thank you for inviting us along.
o Emailkruegermbma@comcast.net
o MessageShopping at the market looked so fun. Looks like everyone enjoyed lunch! Megan, thanks for thinking of me on my birthday! Best gift ever hearing from you and so glad you are able to have this wonderful experience! Can't wait to see you and hear all about it. Love, Mom & Dad
· hier au dîner, j'ai dit à Aaron qui mangeait son saucisson, avec du beurre dans ton pain c'est bon aussi, il a aimé.