Back to the city
After our walking tour yesterday with leisure time to explore Auxerre, today we returned for a full day of further discoveries.
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We began in the municipal library, where the librarians had kindly taken a selection of medieval manuscripts out of the storage vault for us to see up close. These books all came from medieval monasteries in the Yonne, including Pontigny and St. Germain (which we visited in the afternoon).
The oldest manuscript dates from the 9th century and was beautifully written, with wide margins and perfectly aligned script. The students learned how this was done in yesterday's class - here with actual examples.
This image of the Prophet Isaiah writing his book shows him with blue hair.
If the person who ordered the manuscript had enough money, the text could be illustrated with color initials, or even figures or stories.
This image of the Prophet Isaiah writing his book shows him with blue hair.
The manuscripts most commonly shown in exhibitions are often exceptions. Books that were read became dog-eared or greasy-cornered; the bindings wore off and fell apart.
While unfortunate, this does allow us to see how the book was made.
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The last book we examined takes two people to move. It is an antiphonary from the cathedral of Auxerre, and several people would sing from it at a time.
From the library, we walked up the hill to the former bishop's palace, a magnificent structure that is now the seat of local government.
From the library, we walked up the hill to the former bishop's palace, a magnificent structure that is now the seat of local government.
A Préfet is appointed to each of the départements by the President of the Republic; he (or she - there are a few women) represents the federal government.
In 2011 the Préfet had these vines planted to showcase the major product of the region. Each type of grape growing here produces wine in the Yonne.
This 15th c. door was rescued and re-cycled to the Préfet's reception rooms.
In the Middle Ages this room was the Bishop's walkway. The view of the river and the lovely 12th-century carved capitals and columns of the arcade gave him a peaceful setting in which to to contemplate his episcopal duties, something the Préfet appreciates today (now it's his office) .
On the way to lunch we stopped at the cathedral so Megan could tell us about St. Stephen, the protomartyr (first martyr) of the Church who was stoned to death. He can be identified in art as he is usually shown holding a rock.
Lunchtime!
​This tiny restaurant was recently taken over by a charming young couple, and the students agreed that the food was excellent.
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Since we're on the subject of French food, you may enjoy this article from today's NY Times:
https://www.nytimes.com/2018/05/14/world/europe/france-paris-baguette-immigration.html
The afternoon began at the former Benedictine abbey of St. Germain, now a museum.​
The afternoon began at the former Benedictine abbey of St. Germain, now a museum.​
As we were running a little late, Lil graciously agreed to teach us about St Germain while we enjoyed coffee.
The afternoon began at the former Benedictine abbey of St. Germain, now a museum.​
But there's no competition for attention once an animal walks into view.
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So - meet Julio, the abbey cat. He's obviously used to people, and the students shared him while we visited the excavations and the abbey church. He even has his own fridge magnet for sale in the abbey shop...
St. Germain is a magnificent monastic museum - lovely in its own right, and an excellent place to learn about the activities of medieval monks.
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Such as stretching a sheep hide and scraping it to make parchment.
The museum also has hundreds of objects that were found on excavations and donated, such as this 7th c. iron belt buckle with its exquisite design.
The museum also has hundreds of objects that were found on excavations and donated, such as this 7th c. iron belt buckle with its exquisite design.
The rest of the afternoon was free time to stay at the museum, explore further, shop, wander, or engage in favorite activities.
Responses:
- kruegermbma replied:
- ​It is so fun to follow you all along on your journey!
It looks like everyone is having a fabulous time. Say hello to Megan for me.​
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randysreuter:
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Mercay what a great trip so far. The pictures are great, the tours look amazing and to top it off you found a new friend.
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Bonjour Mairin! Love the blog! So wonderful to read and see what you are doing, it looks like a a wonderful time. Saw you holding Julio :) J'taime xxoo
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P. Vantine:
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Cloudy, rainy weather? Sounds like a trip I was on once in Pontigny! But it was and will still be great! - P.S. Please tell Jenna B that I hope she's using her French!
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