Friday on the Road
We traveled 200 km today, the furthest we've been so far - deep into the country of the Celts to whom we paid a fleeting visit after lunch.
​
We were on the trail of the Carolingians in the form of a 9th c. crypt in the charming town of Flavigny. But as soon as we got off the bus, the air was full of the smell of anise from the famous candy factory. On our way to the crypt, we found that the anise factory had opened a terrace café, which – together with the warm sunlight – pulled us from our primary mission to indulge in the French pastime of morning coffee...
​
...followed by some serious anise shopping.
In the crypt the students learned about how architecture evolves to accommodate changes in liturgy.
The parish church in Flavigny is dedicated to St Genesius, and Nathan explained that he had been a lawyer in 3rd c. Rome when he experienced conversion after being in a play that mocked Christianity. Genesius is the patron saint of actors, comedians, clowns, dancers, and converts.
When in churches, instead of applauding, we raise hands and shake them (a.k.a. the "deaf clap").
After the saint presentation, each student was asked to find something interesting in the church that they had learned about in the past 12 days, and present it to the group.
This gave us the opportunity to explore a fascinating church – that has housed the town parish for hundreds of years – through each other's eyes.
...which was conveniently opposite the restaurant.
A pause in front of the house where Chocolat was filmed (Juliette Binoche, Johnny Depp...) on our way to lunch.
Everything served here comes from the local farms and is homemade by the women who run the restaurant. After a first course of "country salad" (which disappeared before a photo could be taken), we had coq au vin and pommes de terre dauphinoise ("scalloped potatoes" doesn't do the dish justice) accompanied by locally pressed apple juice.
Fruit tarts for dessert.
Fruit tarts for dessert.
Since naps weren't an option, we walked around the town, looking at medieval stone houses, fabulous landscapes, animals, flowers...
Eventually making our way down to the lower gate, that opens to the valley below. Many things we had learned about castle building also apply to fortified towns.
We made a loop back around the town, stopping to enjoy the scenery.
We finally said good-bye to Flavigny, a walled medieval city on a hill, and drove a few miles north to Alesia. This is where Julius Caesar and Marc Antony defeated Vercingetorix, the chief of the Celts, in a definitive battle in 52 BCE. The Celts far outnumbered the Romans, but Caesar built a double wall around them and laid siege, forcing the Celts to retreat. Celtic Gaul then became Roman Gaul.
​
The statue was erected by Napoleon in the 19th c. to proclaim the sovereignty of the French state. It depicts a defeated Vercingetorix (although the students thought he looked more defiant).
A site map shows the circumvallations - or fortifications built by the Romans around the Celtic camp.
Our last visit was the Cistercian abbey of Fontenay, a UNESCO World Heritage property.
Fontenay is one of the most complete abbeys remaining in France, including the famous forge and hydraulic hammer, powered by a water wheel.
Tomorrow is our last day in Pontigny before we move on to Dijon, the capital of Burgundy.
​​
-
nasca: Thanks for sharing your trip with us back home. The photos are wonderful!​​